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It supposedly originated in the 19th century night market of Chongqing, as a way to cover the taste of lesser cuts of meat for workers on their way to the docks. Which makes its use at a high-end Szechuan restaurant a curious evolution — from the bottom to the top, so to speak. After reopening her celebrated porridge-based restaurant last month, chef Minh Phan decided to close Porridge + Puffs after all.
Porridge + Puffs closes
Aviad “Avi” Yalin’s Avi Cue pop-up, serving shawarma roasted on a spit imported from Israel, has taken over the former Tacos 1986 location in Studio City, running as a three-week pop-up with the possibility of permanent extension (follow Avi Cue on Instagram for updates). Yalin began pandemic-spurred Avi Cue roughly four years ago, consistently drawing lines of fans for fresh pita stuffed with shaved and ground wagyu. “Normally a shawarma place would basically choose the cheapest meats and count on the seasoning and other methods to make it tender,” Yalin said, “and here what we do is basically the other way around.” He prides himself on using wagyu for both his shawarma and his arayes — which stuff house-ground wagyu into a pita and are seared on a flat top. Both come garnished with tomato, parsley, tahini and amba, pickled mangoes. With a bricks-and-mortar location, Yalin is offering new, larger pita and additions such as fries, loaded shawarma fries and imported Israeli fruit juice. Avi Cue is open noon to 5 p.m., or until sold out, Tuesday through Sunday.
MLB ghost kitchens to whip up ballpark food for delivery and pickup, courtesy of IHOP
The Historic Filipinotown restaurant opened in 2018 but began years prior as a pop-up. Jonathan Gold called Phan’s porridge bowls colored with pickles, jammy eggs, flowers and other culinary delights “as dazzling in its complexity as anything coming out of the most famous kitchens in town.” After a pandemic-spurred closure in 2021, Phan reopened the restaurant this year. Restaurant is nearly two years in the making and features a transportive, serene aesthetic with fish ponds, trees, Chinese flower art, calligraphy and other touches inspired by Taoism utilizing harmonious layout and incorporating nature. The dining room is almost maze-like, with tables tucked into alcoves and in wooden structures; one table can be found under a small pagoda built for larger parties. Large paper koi float, suspended from the ceiling, above an actual koi pond. Zhu says that they take great care in the selection of peppercorns, all of which are grown in Sichuan.
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Famed Taiwanese Shop Jiou Chu Dumplings Opens in Rowland Heights - Eater LA
Famed Taiwanese Shop Jiou Chu Dumplings Opens in Rowland Heights.
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Stephanie Breijo is a reporter for the Food section and the author of its weekly news column. Previously, she served as the restaurants and bars editor for Time Out Los Angeles, and prior to that, the award-winning food editor of Richmond magazine in Richmond, Va. To be the finest food city in the country and might be biased on that count but doesn’t believe she’s wrong. The 5,000 square-foot space inside the Pearl Plaza was a feat years in the making. The space sports similar designs to the NYC locations, with koi ponds, cascading waterfalls, bamboo groves, Chinese flower art, calligraphy, lanterns, and ceramics.
A new Korean fried chicken shop that uses rice flour for its coating is now open in Koreatown with a range of styles, sauces, sides and more. Rice Chicken, a new concept from Paul Kim, a former partner in Long Beach’s Ren Sushi, offers wings, boneless chicken and whole pieces available by the half or full dozen. Rice chicken also offers fried chicken sandwiches, salads, cup-bap in spicy pork, beef bulgogi and other options, and sides like corn cheese, fried sausage and tteokbokki. After establishing an ardent fan base with two locations in New York, Szechuan Mountain House has opened in Rowland Heights. Chef Zhi Min Zhu, the restaurants’ culinary director from Sichuan, has honed the region's spicy, nuanced flavors and conceived a number of the restaurants’ most iconic dishes, including the signature Swing Pork Belly, which hangs thin slices of pork belly and cucumber on a wood dowel structure to be dipped in a pool of garlic paste and chile oil below.
One Dead, Two Hospitalized in Walnut House Fire - SGV CityWatch
One Dead, Two Hospitalized in Walnut House Fire.
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Cult-Favorite New York City Sichuan Restaurant Makes Its Los Angeles Debut
It’s not uncommon for lines to regularly span wait times of an hour and a half or more. Manager Jerry Wang hopes that the restaurant will be just as well received in LA. There’s a section of the (relatively) brief menu headed “Ma-La Szechuan.” “Ma-la” is the result of bringing two Chinese characters together — one meaning “numbing,” the other “spicy.” It’s a fine example of understatement. I’ve eaten ma-la dishes over the years that left my mouth first on fire … and then numb, as if my taste buds had gone on strike to protest being so harshly tested. For a while, I thought I was going to have to do my job by smell alone.
The crispy free-range laziji chicken is stir-fried with dried chiles, dried Sichuan chile peppers, spicy bean paste, garlic, ginger, and topped with toasted sesame seeds and sliced spring onions. The signature dish at Szechuan Mountain House is liang yi pork belly, Zhu’s modernized take on a traditional Chinese dish. Liang yi, which translates to “hanging clothes” in Mandarin, is intended to evoke the image of laundry hung to dry on a clothesline. Together with a slice of cucumber, the thin pork belly is dipped in chile oil with a wad of minced garlic. The translucently thin slices of pork and cucumber are presented draped over a miniature wooden rack above a minced garlic and chile oil dipping sauce.
Szechuan Mountain House opens its first Los Angeles location, years in the making
And who have a strong constitution for the wonderful world of seriously peppery Szechuan cooking. “I really wanted to stay true to our menu and not make any compromises just to please what we thought the local crowd would find acceptable. For us, this is what a modern-day Sichuan restaurant would actually look like in Sichuan,” says Zhu.
Szechuan Mountain House offers popular Sichuan favorites like mapo tofu, twice-cooked pork, and kung pao shrimp, as well as classic Sichuan dishes seldom seen on menus in the U.S. Diners will be surprised by the Yibin-style ran noodles, also known as burning noodles, which are chewy, dry noodles that are flavorful, spicy, and salty from cardamine bean sprouts and roasted nut powder. The name “burning noodles” comes from the fact that traditional cooking methods add lard and chile oil to the noodles, which can be ignited without the use of water.
First off, all four of the “Szechuan special street food” dishes cry out to be ordered. Other hard-to-find Sichuan dishes on the menu include Qian Jiang-style chicken giblets with pickled pepper and mala chicken stew. Szechuan Mountain House also features offal like pig intestine, tripe, beef tongue, kidney, chicken giblets, curdled blood, and fish maw. There is also a wide variety of vegetables, as well as the popular golden baked salted corn kernels with salted egg yolk, which tastes like creamy, buttery, elevated popcorn, and an expansive vegetarian menu.
Housed in the former Fundamental space, Rakkan Miso Izakaya serves a limited selection of the plant-based-broth and noodles in which Rakkan Ramen excels, but a range of new items are also on offer. The focus here is on grilled meat, seafood and vegetable skewers such as chicken thigh, Hokkaido scallop, sausage and tofu, plus popular, classic izakaya items such as karaage, katsu and donburi. A selection of hosomaki, nigiri and other sushi is also available, as is natural wine, beer, sake and a menu of sake cocktails. One of NYC’s best Chinese restaurants has opened in L.A.—or, to be more precise, Rowland Heights’ Pearl Plaza, which also houses Eat Joy Food, a 2023 Michelin Bib Gourmand. A koi pond, fake gingko trees and yellow lanterns lend an air of serenity to the dining room, in sharp contrast to the trial by fire your taste buds are likely to experience with several of Szechuan Mountain House’s signature items, which include traditional and modern Sichuanese recipes.
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